The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

Christmastime at Mercado Medellín in the Colonia Roma

by

I’ve been kind of a Christmas grinch lately.

It’s not a fun time to be living in Mexico City. The traffic is twice as bad. Drivers become despots of their own car-kingdoms, leaning on their horns at any pedestrian in their way. (Even if us walkers have the light!) Christmas lights blink wildly on random street corners, part of these pop-up markets on the sidewalk. And there are no taxis available.

I had a whole post planned last week about how Christmas had turned me into a ball-busting chilanga who glares at everyone. At the end I’d asked for advice: what do I to make my spirit feel a little brighter?

I realized the answer before I could post anything. For me, getting into the spirit meant staying home and curling up with Crayton while listening to Christmas music and decorating our tree. It meant making ponche spiked with brandy. And visiting a market specifically to marvel at the Christmas items — not the hurried, in-and-out visit I normally do.

Last week I took a trip to Mercado Medellín in the Roma, which is where I buy my dried chiles and mole pastes. It’s also one of the stops on Eat Mexico’s Taco Tour.

Like nearly every market in the city right now, they’ve got piles of winter fruit for making ponche, which is the typical warm punch enjoyed during the holidays in Mexico. Dozens of piñatas and their long, papery streamers dangle from the ceiling.

Sugarcane, called caña in Spanish, is peeled and chopped used in ponche

Tejocotes, called Hawthorne apple in English, taste somewhere between an apple and a pear. They're peeled, seeded, halved and boiled until soft for ponche.

Guavas are at their freshest and most aromatic in December. They can literally perfume an entire room.

Tangerines aren't used in ponche, but they're plentiful around this time of year. They're called mandarina in Spanish.

After buying my ponche fruit, I discovered an area I’d never visited before, a hallway lined with fondas selling romeritos, bacalao and buñuelos. I asked the woman at a fonda called “Sonia” if I could have half romeritos and half bacalao, and she agreed.

Last year I had trouble getting into the whole romeritos-drowned-in-mole thing, but now the dish is growing on me. Good mole is key.

The romeritos are on the left.

A pot of bacalao from Chucho's, a fonda next door to Sonia's inside the Mercado Medellín

Buñuelos, with a pitcher of piloncillo syrup

After leaving the market, I felt much better, and I no longer wanted to kill any of the honking drivers on the streets. I even stopped at the Christmas tchotchke market and debating buying some hand-painted ornaments.

I’d still like to know: Are you feeling grinchy this year, too? What are you doing to get into the spirit of things?

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. I can almost smell the food in these photos! Nice job. I just posted a recipe for ponche myself and have a bubbling pot on the stove! Ah…the smells of Mexico. Nothing like it.
    ¡Saludos!

  2. It’s true!!! I’m feeling a bit grinchy too! I just have so much on my plate this year and trying to prioritize it all has been difficult. It’s been a busy month at my day job (graphic designer), then being a mommy and wife, and once the kiddos go to bed it’s off to my blogging late at night. Our Christmas tree is up but our nativity set and other décor is still boxed away. I mailed out our Christmas cards early which I’m happy about. Now all we need to do is finish decorating, visit Santa, shop, wrap, bake, and host Christmas. Let’s hope that the this Grinch leaves both of our bodies soon 😉 Feliz Navidad!

  3. “Las penas con pan son menos”

    “A barriga llena, corazón contento”

    applies not just for Xmas time, and really works.

  4. Having been to Mexico City etc….I truly can relate to your concern’s as a pedestrian on city streets…I was told, car’s first (they make the money) and people second…Also, your photograph’s are simply wonderful and my memories were awakened with your account. Thankyou for sharing. 🙂

  5. Beautiful photos! Even though the Xmas market add-on is kind of annoying, I always thought Medellin was a great place for neighborhood shopping.

    • Hi Joan: Tejocotes are generally larger than nanches, and they’ve got speckled skin. Nanches (or at least the ones I’ve seen) tend to look like golden cherries when they’re ripe. Tejocotes are a much deeper pumpkin-orange color. I hope that helps!

  7. Lesley, we have been to the Mercado Medellín several times. In fact, it was there, at a fonde inside the mercado, that I first tried romeritos con tortitas de camarón. No mole. It was truly a ghastly dish. The romeritos still had some grit lodged in them, they were cooked to a slimy consistency; the tortitas de camarón were strongly redolent of iodine y encima de todo, estuvieron muy grasosas.

    Some years later, an amiga cooked romeritos en mole for us, and they weren’t bad. She is a very careful cook, and she made sure that no grit or sand remained in the greens.

    I’ve had bacalao in the typical Navidad style, and I can tolerate it.

    I’ve thought of blogging my most UN-favorite Mexican foods, but the list would be long, (headed up by romeritos con tortitas de camarón, followed by chicharrones guisados.) but such a blog post would be SO negative!

    When we go to the Mercado Medellín, we like the carnitas but the mariscos are even better. We might be visiting in Colonia Roma, but not until after la Navidad. Here, where we live, there are many fiestas to attend in the next 3 weeks. Most of the comida campesina for fiestas is the local version of birria de res, cooked in an open copper kettle, and occasionally mole. I’d opt for the mole if offered a choice, but the birria can be good if cooked long enough.

    Saludos,
    Don Cuevas

  11. This year, I dedicated my blog to getting me (and others) back into the Christmas spirit. My goal: perform one random act of kindness every day to see how it affects my spirit, and everyone else around me. I call them “Random Acts of Christmas” (RACs) and I’ve been blogging about them every day since November 2nd. So far, it’s really helped me enjoy the season and feel “Christmassy”…the most I’ve felt in years.

    Your photos remind me of the Mercato Centrale in Florence, Italy. I remember spending hours just browsing the vendors and buying some wonderful dried fruit to (smuggle) take on the plane ride home! Great pics, and congrats on FP!

  16. You know, I consider myself lucky that I never get all that grinchy during the holidays. Christmas lights (like fireworks) always make me grin like a kid again, and I have an unbelievable love of Christmas carols, despite my questionable singing voice 🙂

    Great post! I’ve never been to Mexico City, but I’ve traveled quite a bit down the Baja Peninsula, and your photos take me back to all the color, vibrancy, not to mention amazing food, that make it such a fantastic place. Enjoy your holidays!

  17. Your pictures were so colorful & pretty! Thanks for sharing! I am so glad to hear you are out of the Grinchy mood! That’s always hard, but easy to acquire in this hustle bustle world!
    Fortunately, when I put up & decorated my tree I was so in the Christmas spirit, but have lost it since…it is too warm here in AZ for Christmas, don’t get me wrong, I’m enjoying the warmth about 80 degrees, I just can’t put it together with Christmas! Maybe writing some Christmas cards,listening to some carols, and wrapping presents will help. Ugghh! I’ll have to tear myself away from the beautiful sunshine and my book! Merry Christmas, thanks for sharing, and I’ll try not to be a Grinch! Oh, Congrats on Freshly Pressed!

    evelyngarone.com

  18. Awwww, you live in DF? I went to school in Mexico, La Universidad de Guanajuato. We were supposed to go visit Mexico City, but I never went. Lol. They said that place is always super busy… The food looks wonderful! I so miss that place. *tear*

  22. These photos are great! I’m glad you were able to bring yourself out of the Christmas rut enough to go out and share these special pictures of the market in Colonia Roma with us!! I can smell the food all the way in NYC…speaking of–I think I understand your rut in terms of city life, too much traffic here, no cabs, everyone’s always in a rush!

    I think you gave me a little inspiration to get out of my rut now too.

    Happy Holidays!

    Erika

  24. Nice post Lesley! It actually brought back memories of my childhood… Romeritos and Bacalao were, and still are on my family’s Christmas menu… As I have grown older I have realized that it is the season from which I have some of my happiest memories!

    • Thanks Gerardo. I’m making romeritos in a cooking class today, for the first time. I admit I’m annoyed with how much time it takes to “clean” them. (It’s like: Can’t we eat the stems? Really? Come on!) But I’d love to integrate one of the dishes as a new family tradition… we’ll see how it goes. Espero que pases muy felices fiestas.

  25. Hey – Felicidades on being a featured blog today 🙂

    Yeah, I was feeling pretty grumpy about Christmas a couple weeks ago but this past weekend the kids basically forced me to put the tree up. We had Christmas music on while we decorated, and seeing the lights on other people’s houses has cheered me.

    This morning we had flurries, and I must admit, I felt happy. My Christmas spirit is still in there somewhere… Looking forward to the fiesta de la Virgen de Gaudalupe. That always feels really special even though I’m not very religious, (and wasn’t even raised Catholic.)

    Love the photos. I could spend hours wandering that market, I’m sure.

    • Tracy: Someday you’ll have to come to Mexico City and I’ll give you a free tour. 🙂 Glad you’re getting into the spirit. Mine is hanging in there, even though the horrible traffic is trying *really* hard to get me down.

  26. Wow great post. Love the food pictures! It is making my hungry though. Very interesting how Christmas is different depending on where you live. I had to get used to Florida Christmas after growing up in the North as a child.

  31. How funny! I just tried that kind of ponche for the first time a couple weeks ago! It wasn’t my favorite thing in the world but if my boyfriend’s mother gives me something to probar then I better finish it! haha Congrats on being featured!

  32. I know exactly what you mean about the cars with no respect for the pedestrians, the smog, and the overall rudeness that occurs during this time in Mexico City. I’m from there, and currently I’m in California studying, however, I can honestly say I miss it. Seeing the pictures and the market reminds me of home. It’s amazing how the internet makes the world seem so much smaller, and I don’t feel like I’m so far away. I loved your post, and the images! I was beginning to miss home, but your blog put me back into the mood for the holidays and I’m beyond excited to be seeing the market for myself in a week.

  33. Thank you for your photographs and the colorful depiction of the Christmas festivities you experience in Mexico. I felt I was right there too.

    I remember eating caña a great deal when I was growing up. My aunt had a few rows of them in her backyard and I always looked forward to savoring the diced pieces she would prepare for me with salt and lemon. Delicious. My mother is making pozole tomorrow and I can’t wait to taste the cabbage, radishes, onions, oregano and salt and lemon! Yum! I always tell her she would make a bundle if she sold that alone as a menu item someday. It is so filling. Add the tostadas and we’re one big happy family. I haven’t eaten bunuelos in a long while—would sure like to add that to my Christmas feast. How do you prepare bacalao? A friend of mine gave me some (frozen) and I don’t have any idea how to prepare a delicious recipe with that type of fish. I’ve never had it ever, so I will need to thaw it and prep with a trusted recipe. I can ask her, but I see you’re familiar with that dish too.

    As far as what can be done to get into the spirit of things this Christmas, I would recommend this post for some perspective:

    http://rejoicebeloved.wordpress.com/2010/12/10/a-birthday-invitation-to-accept/

    I hope it encourages you, and others. To some, Christmas equates how many gifts will be given, how much money is available in the wallet, how many people are around to spend it with. But these philosophies are true spoilers, arent’ they?

  38. I think you did a great job on this blog. Very colorful, good flow in your writing …

    currently i am looking for a blog and/or website in wordpress to link on my current website on great health/rejuvenation info and products… with lots of visuals and multi media … Any suggestions are welcome.

  40. Wow, you just made me really hungry! Mexican food is the best food ever invented :)! Nice pictures, they did capture both the smell and the taste!

  42. Beautiful pictures! Thank you.

    I am usually feeling grinchy until the very last day before Christmass. And then its like with a click that the holiday mood comes! I currently live in London. Wonderful city, especially in Christmass period! It is quite hard to be grinchy.. All the decorations, Christmass songs in malls and winter fairs around the city.

    I think it is worth visiting London just once to feel all this Christmas magic!

    Looking forward to you new posts
    xoxo
    Sandra

  44. Dear Lesley,
    Interesting to see such colours & festivities emerging from your part of the world nearer the holiday season. How would you respond to alternate views on Christ in other parts of the world?

    Best Wishes,

  45. LT-
    I always get a bit bummed spending Christmas in a non-cold climate. Having said that, we have absolutely fantastic weather here in DF and that’s not insignificant.

    Your photographs are excellent. Look forward to shooting together soon.

    One last note. Across the street from Mercado Medellin is Cochinita Exquisito. Not fancy, but excellent (exquisite!) cochinita pibil.

    Keep up the top rate blogging.

    • MDLT: I have gone to Exquisita Cochinita Pibil. Great cochinita and salsas, and good relleno negro. (I admit once they went overboard on grease in the relleno negro, but in four trips there, that’s not a bad record.) There’s supposed to be a good barbacoa place near there, but I’ve walked around a few times and haven’t been able to find it. Someday.

  46. I’ll admit to being a bit grinchy this year. Also, I agree with your solution. Taking time to think about the season and its meaning and doing the activities associated with it help. I’m planning add some snow and Christmas photos to my blog soon.

  48. It is a nice blog, you really take your time in doing this great job. I know one day i will taste this Mexico recipe. I am still enjoying our recipe here in Nigeria.

    I have just posted some Nigeria Food and Recipe in my website.

  49. Now that you’ve found something to help you get “into the spirit,” dive in! “The spirit” never leaves, it’s always within you (Religiously or not religiously speaking, whatever makes sense for you). Sometimes inspiration helps us actually feel it’s presence. Decorating a Christmas Tree doesn’t have to be any different than walking through a market in Mexico City with good smells and beautifully colorful fruit. Remember, the grinch never stole Christmas after all 🙂

  51. Given I have not purchased one gift for anyone in my family, 3 of whom expect Santa to deliver a boatload of presents, I too am feeling grinchy. However I suddenly have a desire for Mexican food, so another night will pass without a present materializing.

  54. I really enjoyed your pictures. I am new to reading the front page wordpress blogs and am glad I read yours today.

    I think when too much world gets in your way it clouds up your mind and while your body has been feeling Christmasy the whole time, you can’t notice. When the world broke around you and your creativity, your genius came out to play, your body was able to open up a little bit and realize Christmas. That’s good. I am happy for you.

    Today I am majorly pms-ing, there are odds and ends I need to accomplish before the weekend is over that I can’t technically justify sitting here too much longer.

    However – though this Sunday night could end without being my “cleaned up ready for the week house still smells good from dinner” Sunday night, it won’t. I am pushing my mind & forging ahead to realize it is there: the roast will be done, I can open the wine, I can putz around and light candles and run a vaccuum and create exactly what I need. Merry Christmas. xo Erin

  57. not knowing when can I visit Mexico, your article/blog is as good as enabling me to step on the ground of a country half a world away. you also inspire me to write about my own country. thank you

  59. As frutas são pequenas , mas são muito fofas.
    Seria legal se pegarmos uma fruta grande e ao lado uma dessas , seria bacana . rsrs

  61. I love your blog! I love how colourful the pictures are. I would love to taste some of these dishes, they seem great.
    Happy holidays, I’m sure you’re cheering up by now 🙂

    • Thank you! And yes, I’m cheerier now, as long as I don’t go outside during rush hour. The horn-honking around here is truly awful.