I hadn’t spent much time in San Miguel de Allende until about a week ago, when I went for the annual writers’ conference.
To be honest, I didn’t really have a high opinion of the place — Crayton and I spent one afternoon there in 2007 and I remember feeling annoyed with all the English-speaking, the tourists in shorts, the expensive artesanía.
This time I went with a more open mind. I stayed at a beautiful bed and breakfast, Casa Luna, with one of my favorite girlfriends in the world. I took some cooking classes with the incomparable Marilau. (More on her later.) The city was much prettier than I remembered — probably the most well-preserved colonial Mexican town I’ve ever seen. The English-speaking didn’t bother me much. What bugged me more was constantly receiving flour tortillas instead of corn, because the waiters thought I’d like them more. (Flour tortillas are for the north. We eat corn in Central Mexico.)
One of my favorite snacks in San Miguel was the guacamaya, a chicharrón sandwich made on a bolillo roll. A very cool children’s book author I met, who happened to be a San Miguel native, told me about them. Apparently the sandwiches are quite popular in León.
I spotted a stand through the window of a car one afternoon and made the driver, a new friend, pull over.
I’d thought the salsa would be more like a torta ahogada, but it was much fresher, like a pico de gallo. It soaked into the chicharrón, creating this layer that was soggy in parts and crunchy in others. Somehow it tasted light, much lighter than the gringa al pastor I had the first night in town. (The gringa was awesome, by the way. But different.)
I may go back to San Miguel later this year for more cooking classes. If you’ve got any tips on interesting local foods, or if you know anything about guacamayas (like how they got their name!), I’d love to hear your comments. You can find more San Miguel food photos in my Picasa album.
The only flour tortillas I was ever offered in SMA were in Burritacos (Mesones 69) where they are made fresh and served, not as those hideous Tex-Mex Burritos, but as small tacos de guisados. They are superb, and the place is patronized mostly by locals, not gringos. In the regular stands, small restaurants and market stalls flour tortillas, as elsewhere in central Mexico, are unknown – so I’m surprised by your experience. I was more disappointed recently by the preponderance of fancy, pretentious and mediocre new restaurants.
Nick: It was weird, I got them everywhere. I even asked Marilau, my cooking instructor, whether it was some sort of thing there. She said no — the restaurants give flour tortillas because that’s what they think gringos want. I was also disappointed that tortillas didn’t automatically come with the meal. I had to ask for them.
Your posts are always so informative. Thanks I enjoyed your post very much. Have a great week.
Thanks Gloria! You have a great week, too.
I just finished reading a book that took place in San Miguel de Allende, but there weren’t any AMAZING pictures. That looked delicious! I love your blog and your writing is amazing. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Kristin! I appreciate the kind words.
Ok, when I grow up I want to be you, Lesley. This sounds like the life!
I’m glad you aren’t too annoyed with the tourists in San Miguel de Allende, those English-speakers are good for the economy, I know that your blog and food tours will help them branch out of their typical tourist comfort zone. Yay!
did you say children’s books?!?! stole a look over at tonatiuh’s blog — love, love, love the illustrations! gotta get my hands on some of his books.
Isn’t he great? I think he sells on Amazon. He’s coming out with a new book soon, too.
I love how you described the Guacamayas…its exactly as i still remember them when i had my first one at the age of 11 during a summer visit along with a Duvalin, refresco en una bolsa con popote and a trompo 🙂
My moms heritage is from Leon, Guanajuato
but sadly i haven’t made the trip to San Miguel de Allende…yet.
I have been lucky to go to Guanajuato capital and i love it- especially during the Festival Internacional Cervantino.
This pocho fresa is now jonesing for a trip back.
LovenHate: Thanks for sharing your story. Love the detail about the bolsa with the popote — so Mexican! I love Guanajuato too. I’ve only been once during the Cervantino, but I’d like to go back again, maybe when it’s a bit more tranquilo. If you’re ever in Mexico City, shoot me an email, we should get together!
is this going to sound creepy? I totally want to meet you, and drink with you. and then beg you to let me follow you around and eat everything you do. seriously.
Ok, yeah, that does kinda sound creepy. But I read your blog and I know it’s coming from a sincere place. If I’m ever in Houston, I will shoot you an email! I’d love to cook with you. Something with kale.
Gracias Lesley will definitely keep that in mind.
Thanks for your San Miguel food photos — it’s one of my favourite places to travel, and I appreciate the trip down memory lane 🙂