My super cool sis- and brother-in-law came to visit us last week from New York. We squeezed in dozens of activities in six days, including street food burritos, conchas at Bondy and dancing (with bottle service!) at a Mexican club until 3 a.m.
Three places, however, emerged as favorites. Here they are:
1. Drinks at the top of the Torre Latino
A few weeks ago, a friend told me that the bar at the top of the Torre Latino — the famous mid-century skyscraper downtown — offered amazing views of the city, without any type of cover charge. I’d never been to the Torre, so off we trekked on Tuesday night around sunset. We rode the shaky elevator up to the 37th floor, and then got out and rode another elevator up a few more floors.
When we got off, we found a glass-walled bar, and beyond that, the entire city spreading out into the horizon. I think we were all speechless for a few seconds.
Then we ordered a few beers and margaritas, and enjoyed the Kenny G muzak. After that we walked to Al Andar, my favorite restaurant in the Centro, for tacos and mezcal. The Torre Latino bar, however, had already set the tone for the trip. Our visitors were in awe of how big the city was; Crayton and I, after seven months, were reminded again of why we moved here in the first place.
INFO
Torre Latinoamericana, AKA Torre Latino
Located at the corner of Eje Central/Lazaro Cardenas and Calle Francisco Madero in the Centro Histórico
Prices: The bar is free to enter; beer was about 40 pesos a piece. Martinis are a bit pricier at 120 pesos a piece.
2. Xochimilco
Given the purpose of a trip to Xochimilco — to take a lazy boat ride on a series of canals, while you eat, drink beer and sing to mariachi music — I’m surprised I hadn’t visited before last week. The city lies about 40 minutes south of us by car, so we booked a cab for the day and went on Thursday, a quieter day than the supposedly rowdy weekends. Visitors can also bring their own food, so I threw tortas, veggies, peanuts and dip in a tote bag.
We arrived at the dock around 1 p.m. and found a boat quickly. The prices are posted on a bulletin board, so you don’t have to feel wary of people ripping you off.
Then, we climbed into the boat and just… floated. And ate. And gazed out the sides of the canal at the trees and flowers, and the occasional nursery. We also drank beer from an ice bucket, and bought a few mariachi songs from the floating mariachi boat. Click on the audio below to the photo to listen to them singing “Mexico Lindo y Querido.” (Note: one of them is kind of off-key.)
Apparently the canals are open every day, and into the wee hours of the morning on the weekends. At night the boats are lit by candlelight. I’d like to get a group together and try that out, but in the meantime, I must learn more mariachi songs. Mexico Lindo y Querido fell kind of flat for me.
INFO
Xochimilco
A suburb located about 40 minutes south by car; you could also take a the Metro and the Tren Ligero and it’s a short cab ride once you’re there.
Prices: The cab was about 100 pesos an hour; the boat ride was 140 pesos per hour, which is pretty cheap split between a large group. While beer is inexpensive — we paid 20 pesos a bottle — food can be outrageously expensive, so it’s best to bring your own snacks. Our friends got gouged on their taco plates, paying 300 pesos for around eight tacos and rice. (I’m still wincing at that.)
3. Lucha Libre!
My friend Julie is a lucha fanatic, and she’s been telling me for weeks how fun the matches are. With visitors in town, we finally had an excuse to go. The headline match was Mistico versus Negro Casas.
We bought seats in the middle section — had no trouble buying tickets, even 30 minutes before the match began — and a few friends of ours bought headband ribbons that said “Mistico” in glittery letters. We ended up having a blast. Fans shouted at the wrestlers, beat on drums, and pumped their arms in the air. A group of women wrestlers pulled each others’ hair.
One lucha fighter — my favorite, Maximo, whose schtick is that he acts overtly gay — even had a midget friend dressed in a turquoise furry monkey suit. YES. THAT HAPPENED.
Unfortunately, the arena doesn’t allow cameras inside, but I did snap a few photos with my iPhone. In the first one, you can kind of see good-guy female lucha wrestler Dark Angel get flipped over by one of the meanies, or rudas.
We left the match ebullient and a bit hoarse. Mistico, the good guy, won.
INFO
Lucha Libre at Arena Mexico
Dr. Lavista No. 197, Colonia Doctores
Prices: Our tickets were 180 pesos a piece, and the seats were great. However, Julie says the real action lies in the first five rows. Tickets there cost about 300 pesos. Also, don’t expect to eat much more than popcorn and chips there. If you want to eat more substantially, try some of the taco vendors outside before the match starts. It’s also worth wandering around and checking out the T-shirts, masks, glittery headbands, etc.
If you know of any other tips I didn’t mention here, or if you have a few favorite “go-to” Mexico City activities outside of the usual suspects (pyramids, Zocalo, Frida Kahlo’s house, etc.), definitely let me know. We’ve got more visitors coming in December.
Dj Download
Cool info. Leslie. Lucky
Steven Roll
Very nice run down of cool things to do in Mexico City. I like the pics too. I will definitely refer to your post before I visit the DF.
Jill
Love your site! My favorite DF moments are in Coyoacan, particularly getting coffee and doughnuts on a stick at El Jarocho cafe. Mmm . . . And then I go and eat myself silly in Coyoacan’s zocalo. Man, I miss that!
Lesley
Hey, thanks Jill! Welcome! Glad you’re enjoying the blog. I haven’t been to El Jarocho yet… the line there is always super long, and I hate waiting for my coffee fix. I should embrace the Mexican custom of coffee at 4 or 5 p.m., and then I probably wouldn’t be so cranky.
Steven: Welcome to you, too!
chilangoso
Great!! I have lived my entire life in Mexico City, and I have never been on a Xochimilco trajinera , What a shame!
gatomuerte
4 words for when you are in Xochimilco – Isla de las Muñecas
http://everywheremag.com/places/5452
Creepy, yet very peacefull. Bring your own food and drink it’s off the beaten path (you can sail by the vendor boats when you get back).
Really enjoying your blog (especially the food and market bits).
Scooter
Lesley
Hey Scooter: Welcome! Glad you’re enjoying the blog. We didn’t make it to Isla de las Muñecas because our trajinero said it’d be a six-hour roundtrip journey. (We only had maybe three hours to spare on the boat.) I definitely want to check it out when I have the whole day, though.
gatomuerte
It did take a while and our trajinero (he must have been 8o) had to ask directions from people on islands a few times. I think we were only on the canal for about 3 or 4 hours though. We took the Metro from Centro (to the end of the line) and then the tren (to the end of the line). The whole trip was great.
Scooter
Heidi in DF
I just found your blog today and haven’t read enough to know if I’m asking something you already know about…have you been to see the Diego Rivera murals in the SEP (Secretaria de Educacion Publica) building downtown? Most folks see the ones in Palacio Nacional but the SEP building has some amazing examples of his work and the time we visited it was really peaceful even though it’s in the heart of the city (at Argentina 28).
One of my all time favorite place to take visitors (okay, really myself more than visitors) is a bit on the touristy side, but delicious: breakfast at Sak’s on Plaza San Jacinto in San Angel on a Saturday. Get there before 10 and you should be able to get a sidewalk table where you can watch the artisans and vendors and mariachis going past. The menu features creative organic, vegetarian interpretations of Mexican standards.
I’m enjoying your blog and all the familiar moments of life in el DF as experienced by a gal from the other side of the Rio Bravo.
Heidi in DF
And also Diego Rivera’s Anahuacalli Museum is definitely a great spot, and enough off the beaten path that I had been here about five years before I got there. Do not wait that long!
Lesley
Hi Heidi: Thanks for your comments! I have seen the murals. Definitely agree that they’re a great place to take visitors. And thanks for the tip on Sak’s… the ambience sounds wonderful. I actually love taking folks to Bondy in Polanco for breakfast (adore their concha rolls, and their decadent, creamy-poblano-sauce interpretation of chilaquiles), but I’ll have to remember Sak’s for the future, at least for my husband and I to check it out.
I too have heard great things about Anahuacalli… must go and check it out with some girlfriends soon!