Xochimilco’s Isla de la Muñecas

Xochimilco’s Isla de la Muñecas is pretty famous — it’s been featured on Anthony Bourdain’s show, and it’s in all the Mexico guidebooks and magazines. I hadn’t been until last Saturday, because the tour guides always told me it was at least a six-hour boat ride. (Six hours? Eh. No thanks.)

Now I know that when traveling to Xochimilco, especially on a sunny day, an eight-hour boat ride is really the way to go. You can laze on the deck of the boat and stare at the sky. You can order at least two rounds of esquites (lunch and dinner) instead of one. And you get to see the tranquil part of the canals, free of all the partying chilangos and their aviator sunglasses and blaring boomboxes.

The isla, which translates to “doll island,” is about three hours from the Nativitas dock. The story goes that around 50 years ago, a young girl drowned just off the island’s edge. After her death, the island’s sole resident, a farmer, began hanging dolls in the trees to ward off evil spirits. The number of dolls grew over the years and now the island is filled with them — heads hanging from trees, arms suspended from wires.

There’s also a museum and a small bar there, too, where you can learn about the history and sip a tequila shooter.

It’s eerie stuff. More pictures and a few helpful Xochimilco boat-ride tips below…

This is what I mean about Xochimilco on a pretty day, though. Isn’t it beautiful?

A few tips when going on a Xochimilco boat ride:

1. Remember that the set price is 200 pesos per hour, not 200 pesos per person. Print out a copy of the government’s official price list and bring it with you, in case a boat operator tries to rip you off.

2. Bring food! Of course, you can get food along the way, but it’s a lot cheaper if you bring your own stuff. Bring a jacket and an umbrella, too, because sometimes it gets stormy in the afternoons. (We were lucky last weekend and had fabulous weather.)

3. Be prepared to suggest a few songs to the mariachi group (set price: 80 pesos a song) or a marimba band, or a norteño group. One of the best parts of the boat ride is hiring a musical group to float alongside you. (They may also ask for some tequila after the second or third song, and if you’ve got any, you should give it to them.) If all else fails and you don’t know any songs, you could also tell them, “Tres canciones de lo mejor — lo más impecable,” and that’ll work too.