The highlight of my trip to Oaxaca was the one-day cooking class I took with Reyna Mendoza. She’s a Zapotec woman who lives in Teotitlán del Valle, a small town about 45 minutes from Oaxaca City. She’s been making Mexican food by hand since she was a little girl.
Mendoza has impressive credentials. She is heartily endorsed by Rick Bayless; she’s also worked with Ricardo Muñoz Zurita and Pilar Cabrera of Oaxaca’s Casa de los Sabores. I wanted a course in Spanish, and Reyna’s class seemed like a good fit for me. We’d get to cook in her outdoor kitchen, grind mole by hand on her metate and shop at the Teotitlán market.
I showed up at her house bright and early one weekday morning, around 9 a.m. (Just a few minutes late because I actually believed the “shorcut to the Teotitlán Centro” sign off the main road.) She grabbed her straw basket and we set off for the market, which was about five minutes from her house. We passed other women in aprons and braids and rebozos, their market baskets tucked under their arms, too.
Unlike the market in Tlacolula, the Teotitlán market seemed quiet and full of locals. I only saw one woman with European features; everyone else had mocha skin, inky hair, braids and rebozos.
The market comprised two to three large, open rooms. Chiles, purple ejotes, purple tomatillos, onions and other produce lay stacked on large concrete tables. Prepared food sat in another room, with bundles of flautas and pots of rice and black beans. In the room beyond that, vendors sold herbs and roots and piles of sweet bread.
The shoppers, almost exclusively women, loaded their baskets with everything they needed for the day. (Reyna specifically mentioned that to me: cooks here prepare everything fresh daily.) People talked and laughed and greeted each other in Zapotec. I made the mistake of saying “Buenos días!” to one vendor and she looked at me strangely. Reyna murmured to me: “People speak Zapotec here.” She taught me how to say “buenos días” in Zapotec: zac xtili. (I pronounced this Sock SHEEL-ee.)
Suddenly I longed for a market basket too, and I asked Reyna if she knew where I could buy one. We walked to a stand in the next room, where I spotted a grand, oval thing with a sturdy handle, perfect for carrying a day’s worth of provisions from my local tianguis. The price was steep — 250 pesos. Did I really need this basket? I tried to picture myself walking down the street in Roma, clutching the basket amid the street vendors and rumbling peseros. It could work, I decided. I bought it and didn’t try to bargain.
We bought sweet bread to snack on, and we picked up the tomatillos, cilantro and avocados we’d need for the salsa later. I bought some purple-tinged ejotes, just because they looked kind of like dragon’s tongues.
We walked back to Reyna’s house clutching our baskets. In front of us, three women carried their provisions on their heads.
I’ll get to the cooking portion tomorrow, but here are a few more pictures of the market.
Victoria Challalncin
Lovely post. I have taken a couple of classes with Reyna and know her to be as talented and wonderful as you described. This post brought back happy memories and makes me realize I need to find those recipe notes! Thanks for sharing.
Oaxaca Cultural Navigator
Hi, Lesley. You’ve captured the village market perfectly. Thank you for the beautiful photos. I’m going to share this link on my blog so the world can benefit from seeing the village through your eyes, too.
Stephanie Schneiderman
Hi Lesley,
Will be enjoying a class with Reyna in early February, and now after your post I’m really excited. And, the Teotitlan del Valle market is one of my favorite places…I love the morning greetings and the tamales de chipil. Will be there next week!
On your previous post: went to Dulcinea last night and LOVED it. In addition to the fantastic food: ahi tuna w/chile, cilantro soup, garlic shrimp, wild berries and ice cream, Lucy, the owner is a DELIGHT. It is now on my MUST GO to list of Mexican restaurants. Thank you!
Stephanie
Ami
I loved this post! I went to Teotitlán del Valle a few years ago to visit the town and check out the rugs, little did I know that I should have been cooking there too! Thanks for the tip!
Christi@RuminationAvenue
Aren’t markets the essence of a culture?! I love these photos and wish I were there with all the pungent smells and chatter. Can’t wait to see what she taught you to make.
Cooking in Mexico
Great photos, Leslie! I looked for your new basket in one of the pics. Is that it full of conchas? Did your dream come true?
Kathleen
chefyourself
I’m loving this story as it unfolds, those images made me feel I was walking along with you guys. Can’t wait to see what you made with your finds.