A few vacuum-sealed items from my pantry, ready to be packed in my suitcase
My first post for this blog — almost four years ago to the day — was a lament on how I couldn’t take any of my American pantry goodies with me to Mexico City.
Four years later, I run a food tourism business in Mexico (can you believe it?) and my pantry has become an extension of my new passions: dried chiles that smell like campfires, dried corn ready to be nixtamalized in my table-top grinder, indigenous salts, Mexican herbs, hand-ground chocolate picked up on side trips to Oaxaca. My cooking style, more and more, ignores the stuff I grew up and instead relies on using Mexican products in ways that make sense to me. Sprinkling homemade chile morita powder on my mother-in-law’s traditional creamy Thanksgiving mushrooms, for instance, sounds completely practical to me, and it turns out its awesome. (The morita adds a touch of smoke and the right kick of heat.)
The movers told us that they wouldn’t take any food to New York. So I went to Costco and spent $100 on a vacuum-sealer.
Two days ago I picked through my pantry and vacuum-sealed bags of chile pasilla oaxqueño, and a kilo each of dried white and red corn. I vacuum-sealed my Oaxacan oregano, and my pimienta gorda, and my dried cacao flowers, which still smell heavenly even though I bought them in Oaxaca in August.
I vacuum-sealed some chile mulato, just in case I’m going to make a mole from scratch (you never know), and a few handfuls of pumpkin seeds, which are meatier and more flavorful than the pumpkin seeds they sell in the U.S. I’m not sure how much of this stuff will make it through customs, by the way. The first trip on Sunday will be a learning experience.
All the vacuum-sealing isn’t entirely about whether I’ll be able to find Mexican ingredients in New York. Deep down — really deep down — I’m terrified that once I move, I’m going to forget everything I learned and tasted. I didn’t speak Spanish fluently or even know what a tlacoyo was until four years ago. What if in New York I lose my Spanish and my newish longing for the smell of fresh masa on the comal? What if what fed my passion was this crazy, insane city, and once I leave I’m just a regular old American again? These ingredients, carrying them in my suitcase, makes everything feel real. This did happen. It wasn’t a dream.
Hopefully in New York I’ll have the best of both worlds. I’ll have the Mexican ingredients I love, and the American and ethnic ingredients I love, and we’ll be able to order Thai takeout from our phones. (Dude. Living in the future.) What I’m not sure about yet is this budding Mexican part of me, and how it’s going to do in Nueva York. Supongo que verémos.
UPDATE: Everything made it through customs. I asked the customs officer whether I could bring cheese the next time around, and he said yes. The only prohibited items were meat, fresh vegetables, plants and seeds for growing plants.
what I want to know is, where in the vicinity of Oaxaca do you live that there is a Costco? And do they have kalamata olives there? Or rice noodles? Or yellow, american lemons? I’ve been here six months, not four years, so I’m still lamenting the loss of my ordinary american pantry ingredients. Happy moving to New York – it’s my understanding you can get everything there.
Aimee: I don’t live in Oaxaca, I live in Mexico City. (Until Sunday.) I just visit Oaxaca a lot, or I did this past year. The Costco in Mexico City does indeed have yellow American lemons. So does the Mercado San Juan in the Centro. I’m not sure on the kalamata olives, but you may be able to find them at San Juan as well, or at City Market either in Del Valle or Lomas. Best of luck!
When you come to New York go to KALUSTYAN’S if you have not been there before you will find so much there. It’s spice heaven…
Good luck on the move and hope to meet you soon…Suerte!
Norma: You’re like the third person to tell me about Kalustyans. I will go as soon as I know how large my new pantry is. 🙂
My two favorite cities in the world and you are going to live in both of them! Mexico City is the New York of Mexico and New York City is the Mexico of the US – you will love love love the city and you are only a plane ride away. Best of luck and I look forward to your next posts!
Thanks Maria! I sort of feel the same way. Yes, planes fly direct, and even Interjet does now. Hopefully I can have a foot in both places just like I want.
Once Mexico is in your heart…it will always be there! Thing is, when you are back and settled in the states, these smells and tastes will become even more exhilarating and will, at times, almost move you to tears when the aromas fill your kitchen. When I roast chiles at home, I rejoice while my family runs around coughing from the “pica” smoke! When you go back…you will be filled with even more joy and excitement. There is never enough time to fit in everything and everyone when you visit, but still. If only everyone could experience Mexico in this culinary way. What a lovely journey, thank you for sharing it with us and I, personally, cannot wait to hear about your adventures in NYC. If you find a place in the states where you can get/order dried corn…let me know! I have been searching for it! By the way, we have made it through customs with dried chiles, pumpkin seeds, chocolate, and dried herbs…like epazote (and you know what that looks like) and even cheeses. You really shouldn’t have a problem, I don’t think. Safe travels…abrazos!
Thanks for your thoughtful comment, Andrea. My husband will probably be the one running from the dried chile smoke at our new apartment in Queens. 🙂 I think Steve Sando at Rancho Gordo sells dried heirloom Mexican corn, but I haven’t done an Internet search to confirm. Also, THANK YOU for sharing what you brought back. We’ll see how much I can get in. Fingers crossed!
When we came to Mexico four plus years ago, we brought all our pantry items in our newly-purchased full sized Dodge van. The shipping co. wouldn’t pack or ship them (even though their estimator told us they would) so we just threw them in our van with lots of wine (which we feared might be confiscated – it was not) and lots of cat food for our four cats and canned goods for us. The people we encountered driving down could have cared less what was in the van as long as it wasn’t guns or ammo and then they just took our word for the fact that we didn’t really have either (we didn’t).
I agree that no one is going to give you any grief about spices and that sort of thing. But don’t pack any meats in your luggage as it almost certainly will be confiscated. Hard cheeses should be OK; fresh or really soft cheeses are iffy. Like here, it kinda depends on what kind of mood the person who looks through you luggage is in that day. If you’re lucky, they won’t even bother looking at anything. Then you’ll be kicking yourself for not trying to blow something by them. Personally, I always try to push the edge of the envelope coming back into Mexico. Among the things that haven’t made it: yellow lemons, baking potatoes, canned and dry cat food, seeds, and I’m sure a few other things that I’ve forgotten. Of those, fresh fruit and veggies and seeds probably wouldn’t make it going into the U.S. either.
Anyway, great to know you. We still fondly remember our tour of D.F. markets with you and the lady who moved to Paris but maybe most of all the great mezcals at the little place in Condesa? the day that Mexico had its first World Cup win ever.
Have a great trip and a great stay in NYC, which undoubtedly will end up being just another chapter in your life. No one says you’ll have to stay there forever. I wonder if you’ll be able to stand all the neatness and order in the U.S. after a few years in Mexico.
Doug y Candace
Thanks Doug! I’m not bringing anything fresh, or any meat, so we’ll see. And yes, I think the neatness and order will be a shock at the beginning. But I have to say I am REALLY looking forward to no more 2-hour trips to the cell phone store, while waiting (and falling asleep in a chair) for someone to call my number. I’m also looking forward to relatively easy bank transactions and visits. And cars who stop at red lights. Lots of things to look forward to. 🙂
Also, thank you for being one of our first clients at Eat Mexico. I’m so glad you and Candace enjoyed the experience — it gave us some much-needed confidence and enabled us to continue moving forward.
I usually take all that food that you mentioned in my carry-on. I do not carry on anything but good Mexican food, and I never had had a problem. Last year I brought 4 kilos of my favorites moles, herbs not a problem, Mexican candy a bunch of alegrias, pepitorias,obleas, etc. etc., and 200 totopos, too; even a dozen of estropajos to scrub myself (lol) Nobody asked me anything. So, if you really want to pass customs with no problem bring your goodies in your carry-on. Oh, I almost forgot I brought quesillo too.
P.S. No tequila or any alcoholic beverage in your carry-on that goes with your luggage and you will be safe.
Mirna: Awesome. Thanks for sharing your story. I’d love to bring quesillo back, but it’ll have to be the next trip — I have no more room in my suitcases at this point. Saludos!
Hi Lesley,
I found your blog about a month ago in search of a way to make delicious masa here in Pittsburgh, PA. I feel so nostalgic when I read your posts because I lived in Mexico City for a year during 2009-2010. I can relate to many things that you talk about like warm, blue-corn tlacoyos hot from the comal and tantalizing conchas from the local panaderia. Here I am, 3 years later, and I cannot nor will I ever forget Mexico. Once Mexico touches your heart, it will always be a part of you. Every time you set foot there, everything that you remember fondly will come rushing back to your senses, and Mexico will wrap you once again in a warm hug. Tomorrow I am attempting to make fresh corn masa from nixtamal for the first time. It may not turn out right, but it is still my way of keeping Mexico close to me. Poco a poco…paso a paso…I am excited to read about your new adventures in New York. Muy buena suerte y recuerda que Mexico nunca te olvidara 🙂
Thanks so much, Nicole — your optimism means a lot to me. I’m in NY now and it just feels strange NOT to be in Mexico — my brain is already asking me, When are we going back home? I know I can recreate some of those tastes through food, which will be great, as soon as I get all of my kitchen stuff in about a month.
How did the masa turn out?
Hi Lesley! Thanks so much for the response. I’m glad to see that you are enjoying the luxuries of NY. Sooner than you know you’ll be back in Mexico. My masa sort of turned out. Haha…I knew it was going to be an experiment because I did not have a true molino. I attempted to mill it with a meat grinder and of course I couldn’t get it fine enough. I’m going to Mexico at the end of March, and I’m seriously considering bringing a molino back with me 🙂 Thanks again for all of the inspiration you bring. Here are some pictures of the “masa” (martajada) if you would like to see. http://www.queondamexico.blogspot.com/
Hi Lesley,
New to your site/blog but very happy i found it!
Two questions:
You are still “running” Eat Mexico? I’m thinking this means the team you have is still in place and doing the same things?
Secondly, after you get your bearings in NYC, have you considered doing the same approach on Mexican food in NYC? Spanish Harlem comes to mind… just a thought.
Best of luck on your new adventure in a new city…
Coincidentally my wife and i are doing the same thing next month!
Hi Brent: I am indeed still running Eat Mexico — I have a great manager and three stellar guides holding down the fort while I’m gone. We’ll see what happens. My plan is to be back every quarter and check in on things.
I’d LOVE to do tours in New York. We’ll see if there’s a niche I can fill. Appreciate your well wishes!
Lesley,
As a former NYer and a recent DFeño. I understand your pain. I sure hope that with your knowledge and passion for all things food you will feel right at home in NYC. México will not forget you, as you will not forget it. Best of luck and see you in either of the two places.
Carlos. El Quesero.
Gracias Carlos! I’m all out of whack right now, only a week in, but I’m sure things will be better once we find our apartment and I have all of my cooking stuff. And a yoga studio nearby. Te mando muchos saludos.
Lesley,
I have followed your blog for a year now, living through you the smells and tastes of Mexico. We are foodies in our family and I shared your experiences with my hijas, who are accomplished cooks in their own right. As a third-generation English speaking only Tex-Mex, I found my culinary culture a little bit at a time through you. Going to the land of my abuelitos before my time is done, is a dream I hope to realize someday soon. Thank you for letting me see Mexico thorugh your eyes and your taste bud. I am looking forward to reading about your transition back in the States, and selfishly hope there is a book in the works…
Elizabeth~
Hi Elizabeth: Thank you so much for your comment, and for sharing your story with me. I’m heartened that you’ve found something of value on this blog and honored that it brought you closer to your culture. I’m hoping there’s a book in the works, too — fingers crossed. 🙂
Lesley….I can’t believe you are moving back to the US!!
I was just in Mexico city for New Year’s. I spent 10 days between Mexico City and Veracruz. And I just fell in love with the city once again (I was born and raised there, move to Cali when I was 18.) Last time I was there it was in 2010. But I seriously didn’t want to leave 😀
So, it’s true you can’t take any pantry stuff back to the US?! I was on Google trying to find some info on this since our movers just told us they won’t pack or take any of my pantry things…i dont get it, since i was able to bring it all in when we moved here!.
I’ve read your blog several times and just came across this post that youre moving back! Hope your move goes well and that you settle into life in the US again =)
Thanks Mariana! And actually, you CAN take almost everything back if you physically bring it through U.S. customs. I’m going to update the post now. Thanks for reminding me. Appreciate your well wishes!
Hi Lesley,
I just found your blog, but I am very interested. I was wondering if you could tell me a thing or two about the things you brought back from Mexico and what you make with it.
Mollie
Hi Mollie: I just sent you an email. Sorry for the delayed response!